Introducing Flex Seal Epoxy: The Ultimate in Extreme Bonding

When it comes to extreme repairs, you need products built to perform under pressure. Flex Seal Epoxy delivers extraordinary strength and unmatched versatility. Available in Extreme Liquid and Ultimate Putty formulas, this powerful new line of bonding solutions is designed to help you take on your most challenging projects with confidence. Whether you need a high-performance liquid epoxy or a moldable repair putty, Flex Seal Epoxies have you covered.

See Flex Seal Epoxy in Action

Watch Phil Swift saw a racecar in half and put it back together with Flex Seal Epoxy!

IMPORTANT INFORMATION: The Flex Seal Epoxy Race car was for demonstration purposes only. This is an extremely dangerous demonstration. DO NOT ATTEMPT. May result in serious injury or death. It was performed in a controlled environment by a team of professionals and is for demonstration purposes only.

Click here to watch behind-the-scenes footage from the Flex Seal Epoxy commercial and find out how we did the racecar demo!

The Flex Seal Epoxy line includes two powerful formulas: Extreme Liquid, for precision applications, and Ultimate Putty, for moldable, heavy-duty repairs. Read on to learn more about each formula.

Flex Seal Epoxy—Extreme Liquid

Flex Seal Epoxy—Extreme Liquid delivers industrial-strength performance in a self-mixing syringe, making application fast and easy. Its precision tip and drip-resistant formula help you make tight, clean repairs without the mess.

Product Features:

Extreme Bonding Strength: 6,000 PSI
Fast Setting: Sets in 3-6 hours; fully cures in 15-24 hours or 1 hour with heat
Watertight Seal: Forms a durable, waterproof barrier once cured
High Heat Resistance: Withstands temperatures up to 550°F once fully cured
Flexible Application: 25-minute open work time
Highly Durable: Impact, chemical, and fuel resistant
Multi-Surface Use: Bonds to metal, wood, PVC, tile, plastic, glass, ceramic, concrete, brick, and more

Our Extreme Liquid formula cures to a black finish and is available in an .85 Fl oz syringe or a twin tube package (.5 Fl oz each).

Flex Seal Epoxy Ultimate Putty

Flex Seal Epoxy—Ultimate Putty combines the strength of steel with the versatility of putty and is designed to patch, seal, and repair a wide range of surfaces. Once you knead the putty together, it activates fast and can be shaped to fill gaps, cracks, or holes. It hardens like steel in minutes and can be sanded or painted after curing.

Product Features:

Ultimate Bond: One 2-ounce stick can lift and hold 4 tons!*
Fast Setting: Sets in 15 minutes
Cure Time: Reaches maximum strength in 48 hours
100% Waterproof: Can be applied to wet surfaces and underwater
Highly Durable: Resistant to chemicals, fuel, and impacts.
Heat Resistant: Withstands temperatures up to 350°F once fully cured
Won't Run or Drip: Ideal for overhead, vertical, and hard-to-reach repairs
Multi-Surface Use: Bonds to metal, wood, PVC, plastic, tile, glass, ceramic, fiberglass, brick, stone, concrete, and more.

Our Ultimate Putty formula cures to a dark gray finish and is available in a 2-oz. stick.

Flex Seal Epoxy Common Applications

Flex Seal Epoxy in Extreme Liquid and Ultimate Putty both have a workable finish that can be molded, shaped, filed, sanded, tapped, drilled, and painted. Whether it's a broken mailbox, a cracked tile, or a damaged tool, Flex Seal Epoxy can help you fix it fast. Here are just a few ways you can use it:

Automotive, marine & plumbing repairs.
Home, garage & outdoor projects
Furniture, appliance, tool & equipment repairs
DIY, crafts & hobbies
Emergency fixes
Heavy-duty & industrial applications

Flex Seal Epoxy Race Car: How We Did It

From concept to execution, building the Flex Seal Epoxy race car demo took a mix of vision, planning, and technical expertise. It was a massive undertaking that required precision engineering and an unwavering focus on safety. One of our Production Team members, George Demetroules, walks us through the behind-the-scenes process of how his crew brought this jaw-dropping demonstration to life.

A racecar is designed with two priorities: maximum speed and driver safety. Unlike a family car, which adds comfort, durability, and convenience features, a racecar is stripped down to only what's necessary to go fast and keep the driver safe. This simplicity actually makes cutting a racecar in half more straightforward than trying to split a production sedan.

The first step was deciding exactly where to cut the car. After detailed inspection and planning, we determined that the midpoint of the B-pillar was the best option. This location was directly behind the main roll cage hoop, giving us a solid structure for bonding plates to mount on the front half. It also left space to fabricate a mirror-image hoop on the rear half, providing a corresponding mounting point for the opposing plates.

Before cutting, we had to address a major interference: the rear suspension trailing arms. The stock arms were 44 inches long, running directly through the cut line. Trailing arms connect the rear axle to a pivot point in the chassis around the middle of the car. To clear the cut, we shortened them to 24 inches and fabricated a new crossmember at the rear half of the chassis, right at the cut line, where the modified arms could now pivot. This change altered suspension geometry in ways that would never be acceptable for competitive racing, but for our demonstration purposes, the effect was minimal.

With the suspension sorted, we disconnected all systems running through the cut line: fuel lines, rear brake lines, dry sump oiling system lines, wiring for rear brake lights, and the power steering lines.

Finally, we built two custom adjustable dollies, one for each half of the car. These dollies ran on a precision dolly track, ensuring both halves stayed perfectly aligned as we completed fabrication. This setup allowed us to manage the two sections independently while maintaining exact positioning for reassembly.

Now let's shift the focus to how we handled the driveshaft connection and separation. We accomplished this using a slip yoke, a splined coupling that allows the driveshaft to slide in and out of the transmission while still transmitting torque. This sliding motion compensates for changes in driveshaft length as the suspension cycles or, in our case, as the two chassis halves were joined and separated. To match the additional length created by the cut, we extended the driveshaft by 3½ inches so it remained properly engaged and functional.

Safety is always our number one priority, especially when dealing with complex demonstration builds. Cutting a racecar in half, rejoining it with bonding plates and epoxy, and then driving it safely on track introduces a unique set of risks. To address these, we engineered a backup safety system integrated directly into the frame rails.

The rails are built from rectangular steel tubing, and at the cut line we reinforced each side with additional steel plating. Into these rails we inserted a 24-inch-long, slightly undersized square insert tube that acted as an internal connector between the two halves. Through both the frame and insert tube, we drilled ¾-inch holes and secured with ½-inch hitch pins. This was done symmetrically on both sides of the chassis. Once assembled, the undersized insert tubes and oversized pin holes allowed for a small amount of movement, making it visually clear that the bonding plates were carrying the primary structural load while the safety system provided a reliable fail-safe to hold the halves together. And that's how we did it!